How Should Climbing Shoes Fit
How should my climbing shoes fit? Well, if the climbing shoe fits, wear it. Right? Ah, if only it were as simple as that. However, like any other shoe type, there is a vast and varied market for climbing shoes and you will have to choose from multiple brands, fits, and styles.
Finding the best-fitting climbing shoe isn’t as daunting as it may seem. Generally, climbing shoes will fit snuggly. The advantage of having them tighter and suited to the shape of your foot is that they will aid your climbing by increasing confidence in your footwork. It’s hard to feel confident utilizing your feet on small or rounded climbing holds when your foot doesn’t feel secure.
The general rule is to choose a snug-fitting shoe, but the nuances of fitting a shoe depend on your climbing experience and goals. There are two directions you can venture with sizing to simplify the process: comfort sizing or performance/downsizing.
Comfort Sizing Climbing Shoes
Sizing for comfort is your best bet with your first climbing shoe. Climbing shoes come in three degrees of aggressiveness: neutral, moderate, and aggressive. If you are looking for a pair of shoes that fits well and can keep on for two-plus hours, try neutral or possibly a moderate shoe. Climbing shoes are supposed to fit snuggly, even the most comfortable pair, so don’t expect it to feel like wearing your cozy slippers. An excellent recommendation to find the perfect fit is to start with your street shoe size. If your toe touches the end of the shoe - that is normal! You want them to fit snuggly for the best performance. If they are loose/your toes have room, try going down .5 a size to 1 full size.
On the other hand, if your toes painfully curl at the end of the shoe, size up! Additionally, pay attention to how the shoe fits around the heel. As you progress in your climbing, you’ll find that heel hooks are helpful, but if your shoe is too loose at the heel, it may pop out while on the wall!
Performance and Downsizing
Be prepared. If you are looking to size for performance, you will be looking for a very snug shoe with a downturned toe box. This fit is found in some moderates and always in aggressive shoes. With the more downturned shoes, you are looking to enhance precision; thus, the climbing shoe design will force your toes to curl slightly at the end of the shoe. Many professional and elite climbers will size down (aka ‘downsizing’) from their street shoe size by 1-3 sizes, so they have the snuggest fit possible. Wearing a substantially smaller size allows more advanced climbers to feel their foot placement on each hold much better than in a looser shoe. However, fitting climbing shoes comes down to your preference and comfort level. You can rock a pair of performance-style climbing shoes that are your street shoe size. If you like it and climb well on the wall, buy whichever shoes you find the best. Like more comfortable shoes, check the fit of all aspects of the shoe, including heel, width, and toe box. You will want each shoe part to fit your foot shape for the best performance and feel while climbing.
A side note to remember when finding the perfect pair of climbing shoes is that sizing across shoe brands, or even between models by the same brand, is not uniform. As always, it’s best to try them on before purchasing, or if purchasing online, make sure to order from a place with free returns!
If you’re still unsure about finding the perfect climbing shoe, we suggest heading to your nearest rock climbing gym or outdoor retailer, such as REI. Staff at these stores are usually familiar with climbing shoe sizing and are an excellent resource for helping you find the rock climbing shoe that works for you.
Let us know in the comments below if this article was helpful, and comment which climbing shoe you own!
